The Aube: Why Champagne’s Wild & Rebellious South is Stealing the Spotlight

If your understanding of Champagne ends at the chalky slopes of Épernay and the stately maisons of Reims, it’s time to look further south. The Aube, long considered the wild, Pinot-driven ugly cousin of the region, has remained in the shadows for much of Champagne’s modern history. For decades, the grandes maisons discreetly sourced fruit from its bucolic hillsides south of Troyes, while rarely acknowledging its origin. The reason? The Aube was considered second-tier; useful, but not worthy of celebration. Only recently have producers begun to speak openly about the region’s contributions, and to recognise its wines for what they are: essential, expressive, and entirely deserving of their place at the table.

The Region Champagne Tried to Erase

The Aube’s viticultural legacy goes all the way back to the 5th century. In 451 AD, the Battle of the Catalaunian Plains saw Attila the Hun defeated near Troyes; this marked a turning point in Western Europe’s political stability, and the region's relative safety from further invasions helped create the conditions for monastic life to flourish. Later, in the 12th century, Saint Bernard de Clairvaux established the Abbey of Clairvaux near Bar-sur-Aube. His Cistercian monks played an essential role in the development of viticulture across France, including the construction of the cellars now used by Drappier in Urville.

Despite this deeply rooted history, when the newly formed Institut National des Appellations d'Origine (INAO) drew the boundaries of the appellation in 1908, the Aube was excluded from the official Champagne designation. The rationale? The region was deemed too distant, too Burgundian in style, and too difficult to control.

The vignerons of the Aube responded in a way that is both culturally and historically French: they revolted! The riots of 1911 were a direct response to this institutional slight, and the scenes were dramatic: cellars destroyed, wine shops set on fire, and strikes of all vineyard workers. Tension rose until 10,000 troops were sent from Paris to break up the riots. After such unrest, the region was classified as “Champagne deuxième zone”, permitted to grow grapes, but effectively treated as a supplier to the more ‘noble’ north. In 1927, the Aube was finally reinstated within the full Champagne appellation. But the legacy of that exclusion lingers - and it informs the fierce pride, and independence, that continues to define the region today.

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Pinot, and all the Grapes You Forgot Existed

The Aube is defined by Pinot Noir, which accounts for nearly 85% of plantings. The grape thrives in the region’s Kimmeridgian limestone and clay soils, delivering wines that are expressive, structured, and generously ripe, often with a broader, more vinous texture than their northern counterparts. Strangely enough this vinous nature was equally found in the Gamay wines planted in the Aube in the past. Post war, it was believed that the region's climate was better to suited to the high yielding Beaujolais grape, but André Drappier was one of the few who were convinced Pinot was much more elegant and would thrive. It was not long until all the producers followed suit and the last Gamay vines were uprooted in the 1970s.

Hélene Beaugrand and son planting Pinot Blanc in Montgueux in April 2024.

The Aube was also one of the last refuges for Champagne’s forgotten cépages. Arbane, Petit Meslier, Pinot Gris, and particularly Pinot Blanc are still cultivated here, not as curiosities but with conviction. One of the most notable examples is Aurélien Gerbais in Celles-sur-Ource, who farms nearly 5 hectares of Pinot Blanc, a staggering figure in a region where the grape was nearly extinct (it is believed that there is around 100 ha planted with Pinot Blanc in the whole region).

And then there is Rosé des Riceys: not a marketing term, but one of only three appellations within the Champagne region, alongside AOC Champagne and Coteaux Champenois. Produced exclusively in the commune of Les Riceys, and only in exceptional vintages, this still rosé from Pinot Noir is structured, complex, and deeply site-expressive. Annual production rarely exceeds 50,000 bottles, a reflection of the strict ripeness and vintage requirements. It is, quite literally, one of Champagne’s rarest wines.

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A Culture of Clean Farming

Unlike the large-scale viticulture that defines much of the Marne, the Aube remained relatively untouched by mass production. Grapegrowers, seeing much lower prices per kilo, and lower pressure in terms of yield, meant that they were not pressured into accomodating the Boues de Paris - sludge and urban waste transported from Paris to the Champagne region in the mid-20th century to be used as fertiliser in vineyards. While intended as a nutrient boost, the practice was controversial and is now widely cited as a low point in the region’s agricultural history, particularly in contrast to the cleaner, more organic practices long upheld in the Aube. This, combined with smaller holdings and a more human scale of work, laid the groundwork for a culture of clean, low-intervention farming. Many producers were more organically and biodynamically inclined. Maison Fleury in Courteron became the first champagne producer to be certified biodynamic in 1989, and remains a benchmark. But many other growers farm organically or biodynamically without certification, not for marketing, but simply because that’s how they believe good wine is made. These are not curated estates for wine tourism. They are working farms, and the wines reflect that.

A traditional Cadole - a winemakers hut found only in the Aube

The Experimental Playground of Champagne

The freedom to farm differently also translates to the cellar. In the Aube, there is a culture of experimentation, not for novelty’s sake, but as a natural extension of individuality. Producers like Charles Dufour, particularly through his Bulles de Comptoir label, represent a new generation in Champagne that’s unafraid to challenge tradition. Working with minimal intervention, native yeasts, low to zero dosage, and often no sulphur, Dufour's wines are raw, expressive, and strikingly alive, often described as the closest thing to natural wine within the appellation’s rigid framework. He sources from his organically farmed parcels, including a significant proportion of Pinot Blanc, and bottles with unapologetic transparency. These are not polished luxury products; they are soulful, characterful wines that reflect both place and personality: champagne, stripped of its formalwear.

Charles Dufour, Bulles de Comptoir

Another trailblazer, Jérôme Coessens is redefining champagne through a Burgundian lens, focusing entirely on his single vineyard, Largillier, in Ville-sur-Arce. Rather than blending which is a pillar of Champagne identity, he vinifies distinct parcels of this site to reveal nuanced expressions of Pinot Noir, treating sparkling wine with the precision and terroir-focus of a fine still wine. His low- to zero-dosage cuvées, often aged extensively and sometimes barrel-fermented, are uncompromisingly pure and site-specific: champagne with a singular voice.

Why is the Aube Is the Region to Watch?

Champagne is changing. Climate change is no longer a future concern, it’s shaping vineyards now. Land prices in the historic heartland are soaring. And the Aube? The Aube is quietly showing the way forward.

Producers in the north are now planting forgotten varieties to adapt. Single-vineyard expressions are gaining global traction. Organic farming is no longer a niche, but a necessity for any winemaker serious about resilience. These are all things the Aube has been doing - not as a trend, but as a way of life.

As Champagne confronts the pressing questions of climate, sustainability, and transparency, the Aube already offers a compelling answer: pragmatic, principled, and rooted in real vineyards.

And let’s not forget the setting. This is a region of breathtaking beauty; rolling hills draped in vines, luxuriant slopes, winding rivers, and the medieval charm of Troyes with its half-timbered façades and rich culinary heritage.

In the end, the Aube isn’t just a sub-region. It’s proof that Champagne is not a monolith. And that some of its most powerful voices come from those who were once nearly written out of the story.

Troyes - Cathedral and Maisons à Colombages

Le Chien de l'Aube 2025

6 September 2025, 6:30 – 11:00 pm GMT+8|Location is TBD

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🍇Montgueux

Montgueux Perched on a chalky hill just west of Troyes, Montgueux is a geological outlier, a beacon of chalk in an otherwise clay-dominant region. Its south-facing slopes and warm microclimate make it ideal for Chardonnay, which accounts for the vast majority of plantings here (over 90%). The wines are powerful, exotic, and sometimes mistaken for Grand Cru whites from the Côte des Blancs, yet with more opulence and spice. Notable producers: Helene Beaugrand, Jacques Lassaigne, Jean Velut.

🍇Barséquanais

Vallée de l’Arce

Bertignolles A tiny commune with 619 ha of steep clay-limestone slopes almost entirely planted to Pinot Noir (96%), producing rustic and expressive base wines. Notable producers: None known

Buxières-sur-Arce With 18% Chardonnay, this village shows more balance and freshness in its wines, aided by cool east-facing slopes. Notable producers: Vouette & Sorbee

Chacenay Classic Pinot Noir terroir with heavier soils and scattered plots, giving wines with grip and density. Notable producers: [TBC]

Chervey A relatively large village in surface, dominated by Pinot Noir on mixed soils; a few progressive small growers are emerging. Notable producers: [TBC]

Éguilly-sous-Bois A hidden corner of the Arce valley, almost entirely Pinot Noir, producing very small quantities of wine. Notable producers: Colette Bonnet

Merrey-sur-Arce At the convergence of the Arce and Ource rivers, this village has notable diversity in soil and exposures, plus small plots of Pinot Blanc and Meunier. Notable producers: Devaux

Saint-Usage South-facing slopes with Pinot Noir dominance and scattered chalk-laced parcels; small family farms dominate. Notable producers: [TBC]

Ville-sur-Arce One of the most important communes of the Arce valley with good sun exposure and structured, age-worthy Pinot. Notable producers: Jérôme Coessens.

Vitry-le-Croisé High elevation and colder microclimates make for long growing seasons and focused, taut Pinot Noir. Notable producers: [TBC]

Vallée de la Laignes

Balnot-sur-Laignes Clay-limestone soils with excellent drainage produce vibrant Pinot Noir; a few small growers are experimenting with organic practices.Notable producers: [TBC]

Les Riceys Champagne’s largest commune and the only one with three AOCs; structured Pinot and Rosé des Riceys are the village’s hallmarks. Notable producers: Olivier Horiot, Alexandre Bonnet, Rémy Massin.

Polisy Known for its clay-rich soils and moderate Chardonnay content; also home to plantings of rare varieties like Arbanne and Pinot Blanc. Notable producers: Didier Doué.

Vallée de l’Ource

Celles-sur-Ource The spiritual home of the Aube’s grower movement; Pinot Noir thrives on Kimmeridgian limestone with a growing wave of biodynamic farming. Notable producers: Pierre Gerbais, Cédric Bouchard (Roses de Jeanne).

Cunfin

Cool and high-altitude site with dominant Pinot Noir and very small production; mostly sold to cooperatives. Notable producers: [TBC]

Essoyes A large village with diverse soils; wines tend toward richness with some freshness from north-facing parcels. Notable producers: Champagne Michel Littière, Pascal Walczak.

Fontette Marl and clay slopes dominate here, producing rounder Pinot with good aging potential. Notable producers: Charles Collin

Landreville A hub for minimal interventionists, with soils well-suited to vibrant, expressive Pinot. Notable producers: Charles Dufour, Clandestin, Yann Prophete.

Loches-sur-Ource Consistently ripe fruit due to sunny expositions; good Chardonnay content relative to the region. Notable producers: Gallimard Père et Fils.

Noé-les-Mallets High proportion of Pinot Noir; gentle slopes produce well-rounded, accessible wines. Notable producers: Louise Brison

Verpillières-sur-Ource Small plots and very traditional viticulture; Pinot Noir-focused with moderate elevation. Notable producers: Champagne Millot Pere et Fille

Viviers-sur-Artaut Unique in the Aube for its high Meunier content (14%), offering rare cuvées with softer texture. Notable producers: Guy Charbaut, Pascal Walczak.

Vallée de la Sarce

Avirey-Lingey Well-drained slopes and early adoption of biodynamics define this village; Pinot Noir excels here in both ripeness and structure. Notable producers: Champagne Dosnon.

Bagneux-la-Fosse High Pinot Noir dominance and deep clay soils give broad-shouldered wines with density and grip. Notable producers: [TBC]

Bragelogne-Beauvoir South-facing vineyards with shallow topsoil produce wines with intensity and mineral length. Notable producers: [TBC]

Channes

Champagne’s southernmost village, bordering Burgundy; warm climate and full-bodied Pinot Noir are the norm. Notable producers: Michel Guilleminot

Vallée de la Seine

Bar-sur-Seine Historic town with a legacy of trade; Pinot Noir dominates, but interestingly, a small but meaningful percentage of Pinot Blanc remains. Notable producers: [TBC]

Buxeuil Well-exposed slopes with high limestone content; Chardonnay performs particularly well here. Notable producers: Famille Moutard, Champagne Damien-Buffet, Laculle Freres

Courteron A village of biodynamic pioneers; Pinot Noir here is textured, savoury, and often aged in wood. Notable producers: Champagne Fleury, Claude Perrard.

Gyé-sur-Seine A rising star in the Aube, with diverse terroirs and a new generation of growers experimenting with low-intervention methods. Notable producers: Champagne Robert Barbichon, Champagne Davy Dosnon.

Mussy-sur-Seine One of the quietest communes in terms of bottlings; wines tend to be earthy and structured. Notable producers: [TBC]

Neuville-sur-Seine Among the larger villages in surface area; Pinot Noir leads, but Chardonnay and Meunier are increasingly respected here. Notable producers: Champagne Paul Dangin & Fils.

Plaines-Saint-Lange

Minimal surface under vine; mostly old-vine Pinot Noir producing concentrated fruit. Notable producers: [TBC]

Polisot A leader in natural viticulture, known for Pinot Noir and Pinot Blanc blends made with zero dosage and minimal SO2. Notable producers: Marie-Courtin, Piollot Père & Fils.

🍇 Bar-sur-Aubois

Arrentières One of the most dynamic and forward-looking villages in the Bar-sur-Aubois, Arrentières has a strong winemaking tradition, with a healthy number of independent grower-producers. The terroir is predominantly clay-limestone, with south-facing slopes producing generous, ripe Pinot Noir, while Chardonnay performs well on higher elevations. Its wines are often fuller-bodied with good ageing potential. Notable producers: Champagne Albert Beerens, Champagne Jacques Chaput, Champagne Guy Chaput, Champagne Mennetrier Arsonval One of the most Chardonnay-influenced villages in the Aube (27%); chalk-laced soils bring freshness and lift. Notable producers: [TBC]

Bar-sur-Aube The central town of the Bar-sur-Aubois with steep vineyard slopes flanking the Aube River; Pinot Noir leads but Chardonnay is gaining ground. Notable producers: Champagne Caillez Lemaire (sourcing nearby).

Baroville A significant commune with high limestone content and good slope orientation; wines are often precise and age-worthy. Notable producers: Philippe Fourrier, Christian Naudé.

Bergères (Bergères-sous-Montmirail) (Note: Ensure this is not confused with Bergères-lès-Vertus in the Côte des Blancs)

Bergères (near Urville) is a small commune with predominantly Pinot Noir and clay-limestone soils. South-facing parcels lend generous fruit, and some older vines contribute to wines of surprising depth.

Notable producers: Champagne Rigollot

Bligny Historic château-based production with structured, ageable Pinot Noir and Meunier cuvées, as well as a clos planted with 6 grape varieties. Notable producers: Champagne Château de Bligny.

Champignol-lez-Mondeville High elevation and wind exposure create taut, cool-climate Pinot styles; vineyards slope steeply toward forest. Notable producers: Champagne Gremillet.

Colombé-la-Fosse Diverse cépages with Pinot Noir and Meunier side by side; clay-heavy soils give broad, textured wines. Notable producers: Champagne Germar Breton

Colombey-les-Deux-Églises Easternmost Champagne village and entry point into Haute-Marne; often cooler and later-ripening. It is best known as the home of Charles de Gaulle Notable producers: Champagne Christian Peligri

Engente Quiet commune with small family producers; Pinot-dominant, with restrained fruit expression. Notable producers: Jean-Pierre Baudouin

Fontaines Wines from here show rich fruit and low acidity; Pinot Meunier is planted in pockets. Notable producers: Gérard Leseurre

Jaucourt Balanced cépage mix with some of the highest Chardonnay content in the Bar-sur-Aubois. Notable producers: None

Meurville

A classic Bar-sur-Aubois commune with gently rolling hills and clay-limestone soils. Pinot Noir dominates, producing structured wines with earthy depth, while small pockets of Chardonnay add freshness. The village also benefits from sheltered slopes, aiding ripening consistency. Notable producers: Benoit Gaullet

Rizaucourt-Buchey Straddling the Haute-Marne border, this village has shallow limestone soils and cool expositions. Notable producers: Champagne Nicolas Bass

Trannes One of the few Aube villages where Pinot Meunier plays a major role (34.6%); wines can be rounder and softer. Notable producers: Arnoult Ruelle

Urville Historic terroir and home to Champagne Drappier; high-altitude Pinot Noir and Arbane thrive here in chalky, well-drained soils.Notable producers: Drappier.