Champagne’s Village of Three Appellations : The History & Wines of Les Riceys

Lucy Edwards
Jun 17
4 min read

Updated: Jul 2

Why should we seek out wines from Les Riceys?

Tucked away in the Barséquanais, Les Riceys isn't just any Champagne village. It's the largest by vineyard area in the entire region, with over 840 hectares under vine. But it's not just size that makes it special. Les Riceys is the only village in Champagne that can legally produce all three of the region's appellations: AOP Champagne, AOP Coteaux Champenois, and the elusive AOP Rosé des Riceys. That alone should earn your attention.

A Royal Legacy

According to historical accounts and local legend, workers and stonemasons from Les Riceys who were involved in building the Palace of Versailles introduced their local Rosé des Riceys to the royal court in the late 17th century. The wine quickly caught the attention of Louis XIV, who became particularly fond of it. It is said that he even requested his staff to procure bottles of this unique rosé, earning Rosé des Riceys the reputation as the “wine of kings". This royal endorsement elevated the status of Les Riceys’ wines and contributed to their enduring prestige. The tradition of Rosé des Riceys, with its distinctive style and historical pedigree, is thus intimately linked to the legacy of the French monarchy, especially through the personal preference of Louis.

What makes Rosé des Riceys so unique?

Rosé des Riceys is not your average pink fizz. In fact, it's not a sparkling wine at all. It's a still rosé made from Pinot Noir, produced only in exceptional vintages and with strict ripeness requirements. The grapes must reach at least 10% potential alcohol, which is higher than what's required for Champagne. Though the appellation technically allows fruit from Les Riceys and seven neighboring communes, it is Les Riceys that dominates in practice. Only about 70,000 bottles are made each year.

Unlike southern rosés that macerate for just a few hours, Rosé des Riceys undergoes a semi-carbonic maceration with whole clusters for 3 to 6 days. This allows the wine to extract more fruit flavour and colour without excessive tannins resulting in a deeper salmon-pink to light red hue and a richer aromatic profile.

The style? Think pale colour, herbal depth, and an earthy savouriness that sits somewhere between a Burgundian Pinot and a Bandol rosé. Morello cherries, raspberries, blackcurrant, violets and bergamot are what you might find in a typical tasting note. This is rosé for serious wine lovers.

A Place on the Border

Geographically, Les Riceys straddles a fascinating frontier. The village is just a stone's throw from Burgundy, and the stylistic parallels are clear. In fact, on the other side of the border lies Molesme and the Châtillonnais, home to Crémant de Bourgogne. Here, tradition runs deep, and you can feel it in the wines, the architecture, and even in the cadence of local speech.

Soil, slopes, and Pinot Noir

Les Riceys is Pinot country. Over 92% of vineyards are planted to Pinot Noir, followed by a modest sprinkling of Chardonnay and even tinier amounts of Meunier and other permitted varieties. The topography is striking, long rolling hills and side valleys along the Laignes river, with many vineyards basking in gentle south-facing exposure.

The soils here are mainly Kimmeridgian limestone and marl, not unlike Chablis, which is just a short drive south. And while Chardonnay is the star in Chablis, Pinot Noir is the undisputed champion here. The village's terroir allows it to ripen beautifully, often lending a generosity and texture that stands out in Champagne.

Single Vineyard Culture

Many growers here work with named lieux-dits that they've cultivated for generations. Sites like En Barmont, En Valingrain, Les Escharères, and Les Prémalins each have their own personalities and much like their Burgundian neighbours, growers like Olivier Horiot, Pascal Walczack and Elise Deschannes use these sites to produce both champagne and still wines, giving you a rare chance to taste the terroir without bubbles.

Horiot, for example, makes varietal bottlings of Arbanne, Pinot Blanc, and Petit Meslier, vinifies exclusively in barrel, and often releases wines with no dosage. His champagnes and Rosé des Riceys are some of the most terroir-transparent bottles in the entire region.

A who's who of Les Riceys

Some of the most important producers here include:

Alexandre Bonnet: A larger house in the Lanson-BCC group, known for their single-vineyard Rosé des Riceys "La Forêt" and an ambitious push toward rare varieties.
Olivier Horiot: Natural-leaning, barrel-based, and geek-beloved. His 5 Sens, Sève, and Metisse cuvées are benchmarks for purity and complexity.
Gallimard Père et Fils: A solid family-run house with a reputation for rich, Pinot-driven styles.
Elise Dechannes: One of the rising stars of the village, converting her estate to organic and crafting elegant wines with quiet intensity.
Jean-Jacques Lamoureux and Laurenti: Larger growers who provide classic styles with an Aube signature.
Pascal Walzcak: second generation producer who has been increasingly recognised with connoisseurs and experts.

There are dozens more, from tiny growers farming a few hectares to cooperatives bottling under local marques like Marquis de Pomereuil. The diversity is rich and worth exploring.

What does the future hold?

Les Riceys is finally starting to receive the attention it deserves. As Champagne lovers grow more interested in still wines, low-intervention viticulture, and site expression, this village stands ready with all the raw ingredients. It has history, terroir, diversity of style, and a new generation of vignerons unafraid to experiment.

If you haven't explored Les Riceys yet, it's time. This isn't just a village. It's a mirror into Champagne's past and a compass pointing to its future.